Improvement in trimmings



THOMAS.

ings

Patented June 24,-/18735 UNITEE STATES PATENT OFFICE.,

JOSEPH THOMAS, OF HOBOKEN, NEW JERSEY.

IMPROVEMENT IN TRINIMINGS.

Specification formng part of Letters Patent No. 140,174, dated June 24, 1873; application filed March 19, 1873.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, JOSEPH THoMAs, of the city of Hobokeminthe county of Hudson and State of New Jersey, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Making the Scalloped or Indented Edges for Ornamenting Dresses and Articles ot' Apparel; and the following is my specification ot' my said invention:

My invention applies to the making of indented or scalloped edges, similar to those represented in the accompanying drawing, where the edge of the cloth is both ornameuted and secured by a iiat braid or other suitably shaped cord, sewed upon the edge and following the lines of scallopings or other figures.

The manner of making these edges as usually practised is to turn the cloth over double as far as the depth of the scallopings or indentations; then, to sew the cloth along the line of the scallopings with the finished or right side of the fabric inward; then, when this is done, the cloth so sewed is turned inside out, so as to bring the right side outwards, and then the braid or cord is sewed on the outer edge; after which the lower or superduous cloth ofthe folded part is carefully cut away by hand, so as to leave the edge of double cloth and the braiding to form an edging that will not ravel or come to pieces by wear or washing.

This folding over of the cloth double, and sewing it on the line of the figure, and afterward sewing on the ornamental braiding, and then cutting away the superfluous portion, causes much Waste of the material, and also by the double labor of sewing twice and then cutting' out greatly enhances the cost of the goods.

The objects of my invention are to dispense entirely with the folding of the cloth, and the sewing it twice over, and the additional cost of labor; and to unite the ornamental braiding and the scalloped edges by sewing but once 5 and so that the edge of the cloth will not ravel or come apart by wear and washing; and will be sufficiently durable for use.

The manner in which this object is obtained, and the novel art or manufacture constituting my improvement and invention is practically performed and carried out, I will now describe.

Instead of folding the edge of the cloth double, according to the usual practice, the single cloth being first marked with the ligure of the scallop or other design upon the wrong or under side of the cloth, so as to guide the operative in sewing the braid on underneath by the machine and braiding attachment, according to the gure designed, (and which is well understood and practiced by those skilled in the art of sewing on ornamental braiding according to figures stamped upon the cloth.) The braid or suitable cord is then sewed upon the cloth by the machine, following the line of the pattern or design stamped upon the cloth;

but the stitch made by the machine and the operative must not be the usual straight or continuous stitch, but must be such and so made as not only to fasten the braid to the cloth, but it must run over and across the braid and through the cloth by a zigzag and overhand movement, as shown in the zigzag lines a a of the various iigures ofthe drawing.

These zigzag overhand stitches or seam, when the braid is narrow, may be inserted tirst through the braid and cloth, and then over the edge of the braid and through the cloth, and so on alternately, thus forming the overhand zigzag seam or stitch. When the braid is broad, the alternate zigzag may be and should be altogether through the body of the braid, and not over the edge.

The overhand stitch in the narrow braiding is to be made over the inner edges of the braid, as shown in the iigures of the drawing, leaving the outer edge not sewed to the cloth.

rlhe object and eftect of this combining the braid with the cloth, and the zigzag overhand stitch and seam, are to inclose or embrace a suiiicient number of the threads of the cloth within the cross or zigzag stitch or seam to hold it secure, so that it cannot ravel or come apart in washing or from use.

Vhen the braid or cord has thus been sewed upon the cloth by the machine, the slight projecting edge of the cloth ma-y be then cut away in accordance with the iigure formed by the braiding; and the cloth may be cut with great` facility and rapidity by the operatives, and so close under the braid to the stitch as to leave only the edge ot the braid itseltl to be seen,

as well as forms a durable edge or border by the projecting edge of the braid itself.

It is obvious that a continuous straight stitch or seam, or any other than an overhand zigzag stitch, as described, in sewing on the braid upon a single thickness of cloth, would leave it entirely unprotected against raveling out, and the Wear, and especially washin g, Would very soon destroy the edging; and consequently as above stated, it has heretofore been the practice to double the cloth and sew it double, in order to obtain this durable edge.

The fashion at present prevailing for ladies and childrens dresses and articles of apparel, calls for Waving lines of all the ornamental parts, and even for the lower edges of the dresses and garments; so that the ornamental braiding is very largely used; and it becomes, therefore, a matter of importance not only to save the cloth and the labor of cutting it, but also to secure a durable edge to the ornamental designs. In fact, so great is the amount of labor and its cost, and the cost of material in the usual mode of cutting the cloth and sewing it twice, that it is almost impossible to make the goods with the ornamental braid or cord patterns and designs, at a price which will insure the sale and a profit to the manufacturer.

My invention and improvement is therefore of great importance and value in the saving of material, labor, and cost, and in the producing a durable edge, as above set forth.

Having thus described my invention and the manner of practicing and applying the same, What I claim therein as my improvement in ornamental sewed embroidery for dresses and garments, and for which I desire to secure Letters Patent, is-

The edging formed and produced by the combination and arrangement of the braiding, the single cloth, and the overhand zigzag stitch or seam substantially in the manner lesrltlribed, and for the purposes and uses set 'ort JOSEPH THOMAS.

Vitnesses:

GEO. W. Fox, J. B. STAPLES. 

